OK, OENOPHILES. Message received, master mixologists. We get it: You believe the wine spritzer is beneath you. “It just seems so plain. So safe. So suburban. So unimaginative,” wrote Craig Lane, head bartender and manager of Bar Agricole in San Francisco, in a recent email exchange. “Maybe we have also absorbed some subconscious bias from the Bartles & Jaymes days of pre-bottled wine spritzers.”

To him and all his brothers and sisters behind the bar, I have something important to say: Lighten up.

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