This is not going to be one of those articles that tells you that Covid-19 is actually great because we are all cooking more. There are levels of bleakness that no amount of sourdough baking can cure.

And yet, there’s no question that faced with all this anxiety and bad news, the home kitchen has become a place of comfort for many of us, as never before (assuming we are among the lucky ones who have supplies in the refrigerator). When I speak to friends, food is probably the greatest—and certainly the happiest—topic of conversation….

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